With the exception of alkyd-based products, stain-sealants don’t build up on the wood surface; instead, they soak in and any excess evaporates. Left it to hang and dry for a while. I'm wondering if I should follow this tutorial to condition/stain/protect my table? After it's dry, take your steel wool and go over the whole surface again. Thank you for the tips! For people to take the time to surf the forums looking to help others is awesome. You can tell by the sheen where it needs to be worked in. I have done it on cherry bowls and some people really like it. . But if you're happy with the end result, then all is good. If you’d like more working time before the finish dries, reduce the amount of polyurethane. Ummm, are those golden champagne pulls from Amerock??? Guest, if you have not yet updated your forum bookmark to a secure log in connection, please delete your unsecure book and add the following secure bookmark: https://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php. Seal the wood with coating of polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer. Combine the Minwax Design Series with other Minwax stains to produce on-trend looks, finishes and special effects. It seemed Nice though. Staining is one of my absolute FAVORITE projects because it's instant gratification. So that still means a trivet so why not use the other table accessories ? LOVELY!!! . One thing to note about staining -- and I noticed this because we had lived with the bare wood for so long -- it can be a little bit of a shock when you first apply the stain. One thing in particular I noted was that wherever I went to apply the stain, my rag left marks where I started on the wood. Having run out of my Jasco tung oil, I purchased a can of Minwax tung oil from Home Depot. How long does the odor from the tung oil last? And never shake or briskly stir sealants before application; doing so can cause air bubbles that would remain on the surface, even after the sealant dries. Wolf, it isn't a stain BTW. Is this food grade stain/wax? Use linseed or Tung oil to create a beautiful and protective hand-rubbed finish. I make the table look the way I want it to (tables for my own use that is) and then "put something on top as a protectant" . I was going to use Tung Oil to finish the top because I have used it in the past on a mirror I made out of Zebra wood and it looked great. Just wipe it on, that's it! Consider one coat of BLO - let dry, then wipe on a coat or two of waterlox satin . : Next up, the prep! If you try to rush it you run the risk of having the tung oil develop a "frosted" look (perhaps months down the road) that can't be removeed short of stripping. Joined: I keep some around in case I need a quick finish. For a thicker product, reduce the amount of mineral spirits. Known for efficiency in his work, Mike Pekovich has built a few iterations of his sled for making mitered boxes. After the 2nd coat, I suspected that something was off. After the 2nd coat, I suspected that something was off. Gave it 2 coats of tru oil, rubbing it with steel wool between coats. This is where most folks go wrong with it, they don’t wipe it dry enough and any thick spots won’t dry right. : Use a rag to really work it into the wood. Waterlox is a good brand of varnish for your top coat and the protection over the oil you need. We do wipe up around the sink after using it but we did that with laminate and granite too. . Dye mixes well (though I don't think it goes into solution) with BLO. You'll feel with your hands where it's working. For the full details on each of the main ways to waterproof wood, continue reading below! I'm not surprised 'Yotes, I keep reverting back to it myself. Thoughts? If so I put the exact ones in my kitchen!!! Google it for yourselves. The only thing I recommend is do not leave a rinsed off can good on the counter, it will leave a black ring. I just refinished a cutting board and a new axe handle for my Iltis double-bit axe yesterday. It's been discontinued. If I were you, I'd lightly sand it down with 600 grit and put on some good stuff....Tru Oil comes to mind. Allow the wood to dry completely. We have created these special content collections organized to give you a deep dive into a range of topics that matter. I just completed a dining room table top made out of Black Limba. I have waited entirely too long between coats (years) and only re-do when the color is uneven. After fully dry - sand with 600 and follow up with dry steel wool for a flat luster close to an oil look but with protection. As you become familiar with oil-rubbed blends, feel free to experiment with the formula. We don't cut wood on our butcher block -- I love the eventual nicks and dings that give it a patina over the years, but I would never cut right into it.