mickinziedrums,Thanks for the tip. Fortunately we live nearby and can be onsite. It gets a lot of use, no cutting directly, but everything else - wet glasses and bottles, food spills, hot and cold pots, etc. Bar epoxy is a one-shot deal, meaning you can't really repair it and you can't easily strip and refinish, should that be in your future. The damaging element melts a couple layers of WAX, not a volatile finish. I have two thoughts about this. (If it were on the walls where they wouldn't be exposed unless someone was scraping paint off the wall, that wouldn't be as big of a concern to me.). and my goal is to get a couple more coats of low sheen on before winter (fumes). Danish oil is made with linseed oil and either turpentine or mineral spirits, making it a poor choice for surfaces that will be in contact with food products. bob - out of curiosity, have you ever run across John Boos butcher blocks and countertops in your endeavors? But, in conclusion, the Waterlox is beautiful!!!! That raised the grain horribly. Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox Samples. Any sugguestions? It’s not cheap… I think the original or gloss runs around $26/qt and the marine is up around $34… but you can’t beat it in hardness, build, or quality. Not sure about its food safeness. I much prefer the Waterlox, despite the longer application and smell (which is no worse than oil based paint or varnish IMHO). So I negotiated some money back and I did the finishing myself. On my perimeter counters I have soapstone - so I am going for a patina'd, classic look. Every other place talks about “tung oil finish.” I have used your bread/yeast example many times. To get a more precise (read: official) response, you will need to call waterlox and ask a service rep. Tung Oil I did a sample of Land Ark on both the birch flooring and maple cabinet. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. There is a good article in Fine Woodworking this month on the "best" finishes by which they mean wiping varnishes. I used it on our heart pine floors (2500 sqft); it is absolutely stunning and is holding up well. Waterlox is the best of the modified tung oils I’ve tried. While MCU and epoxy may be a harder surface, scratch repair is impossible, and they are in my opinion something we do not want to use in a home or resturant. People are not lying when they say it smells awful. wood inside/clad outside. Powered by Tetra-WebBBS 6.21 / TetraBB PRO 0.22 © 2006-2012 tetrabb.com, 1 wallclock secs ( 0.22 usr + 0.03 sys = 0.25 CPU), PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS! The only caution i would have is to make sure you choose a hard timber. To krod11 - In dispellman's post of Oct 1, 2008, she said her wood top was walnut. This is a puddle of Waterlox, dried hard on glass. Watco Danish - Soybean Oil and Linseed Oil. Subscribe ». -- Cyril Griesbach -- 1/25/2009, 9:04 pm. Waterlox would make an excellent choice to protect and beautify the wood. ), Here is a link that might be useful: How-to near bottom of this page. Would wax "seal" the lead paint into the wood and not get on hands and food? That makes it very hard to get real answers. Anyway, the floor guy has agreed to have his crew return tomorrow to resand / refinish the rest of the house. They sell all finishes in quarts and gallons. If I am looking for a touchup/repairable product, am I better off with a product from the oil/varnish blends? My feeling is that it probably says on the w-lox label if you can apply over previously-waxed surfaces. Myself… well I’m a little impatient when it comes to finishing. They are flammable. Waterlox original is a varnish _made from_ tung oil. It goes on nicely and can be buffed (when cured) to a soft sheen. Though the problem of confusion in finishing begins with the manufacturers, woodworking magazines and those who teach or write about finishing should not be let off the hook. Both Waterlox and tung oil receive accolades on this forum. Uh, actually true, in this case. Or do I then risk the water ring problem again? Be aware that it really accentuates the grain pattern -- it is much more contrasty now than it was when the cabinets had been finished with poly. The more coats the longer the cure time. Tung Oil (100% Tung Oil, not the misleading Tung Oil Finishes) will provide minimal protection. Wow! (hint hint) :-). But someone else might do it, let their kids use it for 10 years and have no detectable lead levels, if the boards and the rest of the house are clean. We have installed Marvin windows in the new house. Or do I need to use something "stronger" like a poly for protection? We can choose between various kinds of wood oil like teak oil, tung oil, and danish oil. It keeps decently well sealed up but don’t expect an open qt to last more than a couple months.